Number of kilometres today: 16.7
Total kilometres walked from Canterbury: 1,330.6
Total steps since Canterbury: 1,885,517
Today felt like such a lazy day. I woke up early but there was no rush to leave as I only had 4 hours to walk. I lingered over my strong cappuccino in the cafe wine bar in Santa Cristina which was the cafe of choice for the local signoras and their dramatic sounding conversations/arguments, their sentences usually commenced with "Allora."
On my way out of town, I browsed the pasticceria and purchased an apricot crostatine that I ate as I strolled towards Orio Litto. Oh my it was delicious, a circle of crunchy buttery biscuit pastry that was sweet but not too sweet topped with an apricot jam that was also sweet but not too sweet.
It was cold today. Yesterday I walked in a t-shirt. Today, I walked in a ti-shirt, long-sleeved, wind jacket, beanie and gloves. It also rained today. The first rain in many days. Mainly just a lot of spotting that didn't warrant putting on the Kermit until lunchtime when thunder rumbled behind me and some big fat drops of rain started to fall more frequently. By this time I had arrived in the small village of Lambrinia and as the rain became heavier,I double-backed to a small pizzeria/piadineria for lunch and to escape the rain.
I lingered over my pizza proscuitto crudo drizzled with oglio peperoncino because it was delicious and because I was only an hours walk from Orio Litta and had no need to rush. Shorter walking day means so much more time to savour everything but not everyday can be like this..
As I arrived into town, it started raining heavily so on went Kermit. The pilgrim friendly who greets pilgrims and fixes their accommodation did not appear to greet me as I had hoped. After enquiring of a workman renovating the Cascina San Pietro, I found my way to the Ostello di Pellegrin just around the corner next to the municipal office. It was closed and locked but a municipal workman who happened to be working on the garden out the front of the building went and fetched the keys for me, let me in and showed me around. Tonight I have the whole place to myself once again, two rooms, one with four beds, one with three and a bathroom with very hot, heavenly water.
The day was short and long but it has been full of the rich colours of Autumn becoming more dominant than the golden fields of rice. Again it was filled with the kindness of strangers helping a solo pilgrim on her way to Rome.
A very long train on the way out of Santa Cristina